Beaucoup de Bisous

Rider of the Cadre Noir

"The Cadre Noir is an equestrian display team based in the city of Saumur in western France. The troop was founded in 1828, and gets its name from the black uniforms that are still used today. It is one of the most prestigious horsemanship schools in the world.

The historic role of the Saumur School of Cavalry was to provide training for the officers and non-commissioned officers of the French cavalry. After World War II the mounted element of the French Army had been reduced to a few squadrons of spahis (disbanded in 1962) and the primarily ceremonial Cavalry of the Republican Guard. While the need for a purely military riding academy had almost vanished, the international prestige of French horsemanship ensured the survival of the Saumur training centre in the form of a national riding school under the Ministry of Sports.

Accordingly in 1972, the National School of Équitation was constituted around the Cadre Noir, which form its core teaching staff. Today, there are about 50 horses and a team of elite riders, usually limited to 22. The members of the Cadre Noir have either civilian or military status. Some of the riders have reached the highest level of international sport, being Olympic or world champions.

Metal statue of horse at entrance

The equitation on which the school is built was taught by Francois Robichon de la Gueriniere, the French riding master to King Louis XV and author of the book École de Cavalerie, which was published in 1731."  [Wikipedia]




We had a tour of Le Cadre Noir when we were last here, watching a video of the performance, visiting the stables, taking time to pet the horses. We did not, however, attend a demonstration since the Cadre Noir was on tour in Nîmes. This time, however, we got our tickets early and attended the demonstrations!


These demonstrations allow us to discover the work involved for both riders and horses to bring them both to the level of performance associated with this elite group of equestrian professionals.

This was a practice in one of the outdoor arenas.

The indoor demonstration now begins.  There is a running commentary to everything happening in the arena.

Horse and rider are put through their paces, learning to respond to the touch of the bridle then going on to learning the steps and cadence.

Going to the right, going to the left - always the horse is exercised in a symmetrical manner to ensure a top athletic physique.

This is the only woman who was riding today.  Her horse is named Eulalie!

We recognized some of the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) moves, but this is very, very precise.

We weren't able to get a picture of this, but some of these horses jump and kick at the same time so that all four legs are off the ground.  This is phenomenal and only a very few horses ever reach this ability.

After the amazing demonstrations in the big indoor arena, we were able to chat with some of the riders who were in the outside arena.  Apparently it takes 6 years for a horse to reach its peak, and then he or she retires at 9, so there are not too many years of performing.

We loved walking down the rows and rows of stalls and meeting all the horses. 

No comment required

This is where the fun began.  This horse took a real liking to Karl, or should I say a real licking.

Perhaps he loved the taste of salt on Karl's skin, but he licked and licked and would bite Karl's shirt if Karl tried to move away, drawing him back closer.

The day was very hot and we were all sweating, but only Karl would allow the horse to lick him so much that Karl's arm was slobbery wet.

With Karl giggling and the horse licking, I just kept clicking and we all got a huge thrill out of it.

Karl would try to pet the horse on the mouth, but the horse would show his teeth and go right back to the arm for another lick.

Kisses, kisses, and more kisses.  Hence the name of this posting "Beaucoup de bisous", which means many little kisses.

Eventually, all this jocularity had to come to an end.

We visited the rest of the establishment.  This is a small museum set up with all the various saddles and bridles used.  There are videos showing constantly with information about the ferrier (blacksmith), the vetrinarian, the warm water showers for the horses followed by heat lamp dryers, etc.  These horses are better cared for than most humans.

I would say there are dozens of these long stalls.  There are about 600 horses here now, but the place can accommodate up to 900.  Horses and riders come from across Europe for competitions.  Not only is there dressage, but there is jumping and acrobatics as well.

No, Karl, you cannot join the Cadre Noir as a horse.  You do not have the face for it.

Press the play button

Press the play button

Press the play button. 

The step this horse is doing is alternating from left to right at every step.  Sometimes a horse alternates at every 2 or 3 steps.

Needless to say, we had an excellent day at l'Institut français du cheval et de l'équitation.

Praise the Lord!

Remember all that wind, cold and rain we've been experiencing since our arrival?  It would seem that our prayers have been answered and the weather has changed.  In a BIG WAY!  We went from wearing sweaters to sweltering in sauna-like temperatures - from one day to the next. 

We went to Richelieu because we knew it would be cooler in the park, and it was.  We were able to breathe there in the shade of the trees and really enjoy our afternoon.  Then we decided to go for afternoon tea at "Le Salon du Thé" and despite an umbrella and lots of shade, we could barely breathe.  When we got into the car, it was registering 37 degrees! I'm sure all that concrete in the town square must have reflected the rays and increased the degrees a notch or two.   Once we left Richelieu and had been on the road a while with our A/C on, the thermometer went down to 33 and stayed there for the rest of the day. 

But back in Richelieu, the tea was lovely - and so was Karl's cappuccino.  A bit on the pricey side at 21.50 euros, but very, very good.

Karl had a Gâteau Hermann, apparently a fruit cake with a Jewish history, served on a crème anglaise base.  He said it was absolutely yummy! 

I had a fondant au chocolat that was served warm also on a base of crème anglaise with whipped cream on top.

Karl's cappuccino was exceptional, and he savoured every last drop.

I had Earl Grey, of course.  The dishes were all so fancy and the serviettes were a fine linen with a small gold crown - or was that a cardinal's hat? - embroidered on each. 

The Salon du Thé is part of an antique store.  I checked out a set of six teacups and saucers for only, ahem, 800 euros.  Not 8 euros, not 80 euros, but 800 euros.  Then I checked a package of 20 paper napkins which had patterns of fine old French dishes, and that went for a mere 6.50 euros.  Needless to say, after we had paid for our tea, we felt we had spent enough money.  But the desserts and drinks were very fine indeed.

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We then drove to Candes-Saint-Martin to see a choir concert of sacred music held in the Collégiale Candes-Saint-Martin, the church we visited last week.  The choir, from London, England, is world-renown and we were fortunate enough to be at the right place at the right time.

Choir of Royal Holloway, London

There are many wonderful instruments in this world, but the voice is unequalled.

Choir of Royal Holloway is considered to be one of the finest mixed-voice collegiate choirs in Britain. Equally at home on the concert platform, the choir gives around 40 concerts a year.  On this particular circuit through France, they were leaving for Chartres the next day.

Created at the time of the foundation of Royal Holloway in 1886, the choir was originally only for women's voices. The mixed choir now comprises 24 Choral Scholars, both men and women.




The concert was unbelievable!  It was so beautiful it touched our very souls.  I can tell you that a few tears were shed, from the sheer rapture.








Rupert Gough has been Director of Choral Music and College Organist at Royal Holloway, University of London since 2005 and previously spent 11 years as Assistant Organist at Wells Cathedral.



At Karl's insistance, we bought a couple of their CDs which I'm sure will become a cherished part of our collection.  What an uplifting end to a hot, but perfect day!

This was Today

Just a few jobs around the house and a leisurely walk around town.  That about sums up the day!

The courtyard is big, but the lawn is tiny -

a whipper snipper and a guy on a mission can trim the lawn quickly.

Careful!  There are herbs there that should be protected and some lovely vines clinging to the brick wall leading down to the wine cellar.

See the clothes line behind Karl?  I hang all my laundry there and it smells so fresh when it comes in!  Now if I could only figure out how to bring back a couple of bottles of Persil, a laundry detergent that we don't have in Canada and that I absolutely love...  Can we mail liquids?  It would probably cost a lot of euros to send 3L of anything in the mail!

  The views

Beautiful trees line many of the streets.  We see this in the countryside, too.

Gardens line the river, one plot after another.



A typical street

This building is right around the corner in Médard Square

Shopping and Cafés

This line dancing is just not working for us!

Château de la Trémoille

More gardens!

Pretty white flowers

and really pretty blue ones!

These two horses were here a couple of years ago, but in a different paddock.  Who knows what their names are, but we call them Jacques and Jean.  We used to stop and pet them regularly.  How wonderful to find them again!

The "Lavoir des Fijolleaux" in St. Jacques de Thouars where people used to do laundry.  It used to be on the pilgrims' route of Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle.

The priory is right next to it.

Can you see the two white birds on the branch?  They look so calm.  It's peaceful here.

  

Then there's this lone swan, slowly meandering its way from one side of the river to the other, no doubt admiring the arches in the bridge along the way.












Not all days are filled with adventures, exploration and discoveries.  Or even wonderful meals in a great restaurant.  Some of them are just perfect moments strung together like pearls.

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